Updated February 20, 2010

Plants at non-organic nurseries are pumped up on nitrogen rich fertilizer so they look good for sale and will flower early. But the plant itself is weakened by the chemical fertilizers and is less likely to survive in transplant than a plant that has been raised organically. Nurserymen and Landscaper courses at Universities encourage the use of chemical fertilizers to help quick sales and to move product. It looks good so you buy it - but so does that fantastic-looking coffee cake laden with high fructose corn syrup and partially hydrogenated soybean oil.

So look at the little sticks in the plants that you buy - does it say organic? If not - ask! Organic seeds had parents who were organically farmed and the seeds should result in happier, healthier, stronger, more naturally disease resistant plants.

Here's a great link explaining why to buy Organic Seeds.



Organic –This is basically the use of non-chemical, non-processed means of controlling an ecosystem. To be certified organic, farmers must follow a set of guidelines and abide by stringent rules. Also known as Biologique.

Biodynamic - This is basically a type of closed system farming or gardening which is self-sustaining and that also uses a calendar (an almanac of sorts) which gives indications for things like planting, pruning and fertilizing. The system also expects the use of specialized organic formulas (like a spray made from Stinging Nettles) to promote plant health and ecosystem balance. To maintain balance and flow, Biodynamic farming utilizes lunar & seasonal cycles. The farming practices utilized in the biodynamic system are mostly the traditional ones used in good sustainable organic farming. The Demeter Association certifies biodynamic farming. Also known as Biodynamique.

Sustainable - You can loosely define sustainable agriculture as farming that doesn’t use up resources faster than they can be replaced (such as: water, soil, labor, community support/services, etc.).


Wear your gloves. The ph of your skin can inhibit seed germination. Touching those white roots when you pull out the plant will kill them.

Using a spading fork is preferable to dig holes as it does not disturb the soil as much and will not glaze or pack heavy soils such as we have in our area (clay).

Mow or cut weeds if you can, as the roots of a weed hold a place in the soil keeping it easier to work in the long term.

Use copious amounts of compost on almost anything instead of fertilizer. You can make a compost tea and add that instead of fertilizer. Famed organic farmer Bob Cannard offered his recipe for a quick compost tea at COPIA's Edible Gardens Festival: Take all of your daily compost (vegetable trimmings etc.) at the end of the day, add it to a big stockpot with some water and simmer it down overnight. The next day pour your compost “tea” off directly around your plants and put the sludge into the compost pile. The sludge helps bring earthworms to the pile and the tea is an energy boost for your plants.

Never buy soil. Always buy compost. You don’t need anything but compost even to fill pots or raised beds.

Watering – water from above if possible. It’s better for water to mix with air to water plants and the ecosystem will promote the health of non-plant life by giving access to water. Drip systems are okay but sprayers are preferable. It’s better to water deeply a few days a week than to water daily. Currently we hand water the garden and use a spray sprinkler in the summer as needed. We do have an automated system in place it's just not active yet.

Spacing of Plants - Plant as much of a space as possible but keep in mind space for plant growth and breathing space. The more the soil is covered the less soil will be lost and the more roots systems in the soil will keep it easier to work in the long term. When inter-planting consider heights – tall at the back and short at the front.

Don't Rake your leaves - let them lie on your garden beds when they are dormant (of course in CA we grow year round). They will compost on their own and make your soil richer and fluffier. (Exception - If you have plants which require low acids or your leaves are high acid (such as oak) then go ahead and rake them.)

I interplant edible flowers and herbs like calendula, nasturtium, sunflowers, borage, edible violets, thyme, chives for color and to attract beneficial insects amongst the vegetables. I’ve also started to grow different kinds of vegetables just for flowers like Pak Choi. I want everything in the vegetable garden to be edible – so only herbs and flowers that are in this category are okay with me. I want friends and family to feel it's safe to pick and eat anything from the vegetable garden.

Diversity in the garden is a great idea. Rethink planting in rows and start to think small patches. Mix it up – have multiple patches of carrots, tomatoes, broccoli, peas, beans, etc and rotate them as you replant. If you lose one patch to bugs, mildew or weather, you may find another patch of the same vegetable thriving!

Seeds of Change's newsletter for April 2006 focuses on Companion Planting - check it out!

A great book on companion planting is: Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening by Louise Riotte

This book tells you which vegetables planted together help each other and, which do not grow well with each other. I now always under plant my tomatoes with carrots. We harvested our summer planted carrots this winter.

Louise Riotte also wrote Roses love Garlic – but focuses on which flowers to plant together. Garlic naturally deters bugs which cause trouble with roses (like aphids).

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