Lupa is a loud, dimly-lit restaurant. The back room is much quieter, so if that’s an issue, reserve a table there. Located in the SoHo section of New York City that has evolved from being an arty area to a trendy shopping area; Lupa fits in well. There is food service at the bar which maybe seats 12, plus there are two tables outside.
Our table service was great. We had a knowledgeable and peppy server. The sommelier was underspoken but made great suggestions, choosing less expensive choices than we would have made and we were very happy with them. He has a soft manner.
With all the hype, we expected that Lupa was somewhat overrated. To our pleasant surprise we really enjoyed all aspects of the meal and would return in a heartbeat. The pesce/antipasti/charcuterie are unusual for the American palate but beautifully made, with a vibrancy in construction and good quality ingredients that shine through. Both of the entrees we ordered were specials and turned out to be excellent choices.
Carne:
Affetati Piccolo $18:
Prosciutto Di Parma Gran Riserva (18 months) plus these fiur that are house-made - Testa, Coppa Cotta, Salumi and Lingua
The Testa tasted like butter and was divine. Jack loved the salumi. Served in a little dish, the Lingua was served with slivered onions in a vinaigrette and was quite heavenly.
Pesce:
Frutti Di Mare $25:
Baccala with Olives & Capers
Market Fish Scabece
Sardines with Fennel & Saffron
Octopus in Panissa
Tuna & Cannellini
An interesting assortment of Lupa house-made marine salads beautifully presented in a sectioned dish. Alone I could critique each but ingredients not picked apart the collection made for a wonderful beginning to a dinner or as part of a cold dinner. True that the dressing masked the fish to an extent – but the flavors really sang – especially the saffron with the sardines and pine nuts. The octopus may have been lost in the mayonnaise but at the same time the octopus became a different creature – almost unrecognizable as octopus. Memorable was the Tuna with Cannellini beans and the big raisins - a few with stems still attached.
