Restaurant Review - March 10, 2005 - Joanne

Cyrus

29 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448
707 433-3311


Cyrus Door

Amuse Bouches
Asparagus on a spoon with a vinaigrette? Polenta Cake - diamond shapes topped with something I can't recall.
I actually forgot about these until a week later. It was such chaos at the beginning of the dinner with 3 different menus on the table - Champagne/Caviar, Wine List, and Dinner - granted it was our fault for the chaos as we asked for the other menus during the champagne and caviar cart arrival. My recollection is that both amuse were perfect on their own but an unusual pairing.

Note on the menu:
The menu gives choices of 3, 4 or 5 courses with the guest able to choose from any categories. You may have 5 desserts if you like or 3 courses of foie gras. There is also a special Chef's Tasting Menu.

Joanne had the 5 course menu - $74

Thai Marinated Lobster, Avocado, Mango and Fresh Hearts of Palm
One of the best lobster dishes I've had in Northern California. Lobster was perfectly cooked (not overcooked as it usually is) and the mango was absolutely perfect. The only fault was oversalting which we learned was from the use of Nam Pla (Fish sauce) which made the avocado and hearts of palm too salty for my taste.

Salt Cured Torchon of Foie Gras, Sauterne Gelée, Rhubard Compote, Warm Crumpets
Wow. This is the best torchon I've ever had. The sauterne gelée had little flavor but the rhubard compote (tiny cubes of lightly cooked (poached?) rhubarb) went wonderfully with it. The downside was the crumpets, which although made with great artistry and flavor in their own right, were overly greasy. Their yeasty flavor overpowered the foie gras. I tried the torchon with toasted brioche and with the tablebread (a whole wheat epi) and neither were better matches.

Roasted Beets with Blood Orange, Ginger and Watercress
Tiny cubes of 3 color beets formed in inverted glass shaped tower. Too much dressing and flavors that just didn't mesh. Plus the sweet potato chips which accompanied it were way too greasy and flavorless.

Roasted Squab with Gesier Stuffing and Dried Cherries
As I had this dish from this chef before and loved it I went for it again. The Gesier stuffing was again exemplary. I think the squab itself was not quite as meaty as the last time I had it but perfectly cooked with crisp skin and rare meat. The dish suffered from over-salting and too little sauce for the squab. The cherries which had been slightly rehydrated in the previous version of this dish I enjoyed, this time were not and I think that they should have been.

Cheese Cart: Our choices - Flixin, Robiola Pineta, Vacherin, Époisses and Fourme D'Aubert. Other choices available: Redwood Hill's Camellia, Andante's Minuet, Soumatrain, Pierre Robert, and Beeler's Hoch Ybrig.

Dessert: Toasted Almond Dacquoise, Espresso Sabayon Passion Fruit Granite
Meringue was wonderful, perfect squares. Espresso Sabayon very lightly flavored and well done. Almonds were crispy. The Granite was spectacular but a poor pairing with the dacquiose - the flavors clashed.
Cyrus - Hotel Exterior

Jack had the Chef's Tasting Menu - $85

Chilled Oyster Veloute with Paddlefish Caviar
The caviar-wreathed oyster comes perched on a tower of ice in which tricolor peppercorns are suspended (an inverted glass shape), and is accompanied by a tiny cup of the veloute.

Foie Gras Three Ways:
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Lentil Ragout, Asian Pear, Vanilla Bean Gastrique
Salt Cured Torchon of Foie Gras, Sauterne Gelee, Rhubard Compote, Warm Crumpets
Terrine with Curried Apple Compote, brioche.
The Torchon was the star. Next in line was the seared. The lentils tasting almost like nuts and the flavors coming together as an earthy wintery delight, this preparation is best chosen to be enjoyed by itself. The terrine needed the compote to be interesting and still was pale in comparison to the other two offerings, the brioched was lightly toasted. It was great to try all three this way but the three didn't really complement each other.

Nantucket Bay Scallops with Carrot Mousseline, Ginger Mussel Jus and Kaffir Lime
This was a great dish. Jack didn't quite like the ginger-kaffir (and I think lemongrass) element. The perfect little scallops were accompanied by a trio of baby carrots.

American Red Snapper with Black trumpets and Fava Beans, Ramp Nage
Black Trumpets crispy and very tasty. It was a solid dish not a fantastic dish. But the baby favas were wonderful.

Rack of Lamb with Green Garlic Potato Purée and Spring Vegetables, Lavender
Purée leaden and inedible. Lamb flavorful but have had more tender.

A Selection of Cheese Presented Tableside
(see Joanne's menu choices)

Lemon Meringue Chiffon Cake
We actually took this home and Jack had the sorbet and ice cream. The review on the meringue cake was there was too much meringue and too little cake. The pineapple was wonderful as was the cake but the amount of meringue overpowered the delicate flavors.

Chocolate and Coconut Sorbet
The Chocolate Ice Cream was very good. Coconut sorbet had coconut shavings and was delicious. They apparently have a very high-tech ice cream maker (a Ragusa?) which allows them to make a great number of ice creams and sorbets in a short amount of time. So definitely check out the flavors available, they're five of each if I recall. All of the choices were really interesting.

Wines:
NV Paul Bara Brut Reserve Champagne from Bouzy (375ml)
2002 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (375ml)
2002 Vall Llach Priorat (a tremendous value - Jack)
The wine list is one of the most interesting in Sonoma County. There is an unusually great selection of half bottles and non-California wine. There are even some older wines on the list.

Jack's mini-summation: This restaurant zooms to the culinary elite of Sonoma County restaurants. This was an excellent dining experience, especially considering they had been open for only a week. It is also Sonoma County's most formal restaurant; inside you have no idea you're in wine country - you could be anywhere.
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